Segovia or cathedrals aren’t what they used to be

About a year ago Joey and I were at Barnes and Noble flipping through photography books on Europe. While looking at a book on Spain we came across a few sweeping panoramas of a tiny medieval town called Segovia. One look at the fortified walls, the forbidding castle, the jutting spires of the cathedral, and the endless arches of the aqueduct, and I knew that we had to go. Luckily, Segovia is a short bus ride away from Madrid and after our night in the inferno of Jeremy’s apartment, a day in medieval village sounded nice. We bought some food, boarded the bus, and headed to Segovia.

Segovia is beautiful and if you are in Madrid for any amount of time at all it is worth the bus ride. But I have to say, our time in Segovia solidified a shift I’ve sensed in myself concerning travel. I’ve been to Europe a handful of times and to other places where you travel in a similar way, namely, you stay in a major city, take in the major sights, enjoy the local cuisine or some of other culturally significant thing like flamenco or bullfighting.

But lately I’ve really just wanted to be outside, to hike and to enjoy the landscape of a place more than the things I’ve traditionally enjoyed. The castle was amazing and I always love cathedrals, but the best part of the day in Segovia was when we hiked around the perimeter of the city. At one point we were lost, so we cut across a field and down a hill through some trees, and that was the most fun I had all day.


I enjoyed it because it was restorative. I didn’t feel like I needed to accomplish anything other than enjoying the landscape. Much of the way I travel is reflective of how I live my life, namely that I am striving to learn and to accumulate information, purely for sake of having information. My number one strength is input. I collect information like middle school girls used to collect trolls—that is, crazily. Europe is great for that because everything has a story, everything has cultural weight. There is information everywhere and if you are wired like me, that can turn into work rather than pleasure.

One thing I’ve been learning this year spiritually is the difference between vacating and recreating. The vacation implies vacantness, that you are fleeing a space, fleeing your life. But that never works. If you are a workaholic at home then you are going to manifest those things on a trip. Vacating isn’t really possible in my opinion, and if it is then it certainly isn’t healthy because it is probably coupled with mind-altering substances. Recreation is different—it is re-creative. What this means is that when we travel or take any time for ourselves it should recreate us. Our day in Segovia was that for me.

Madrid Day 1 or I’m tired of sweating while I sleep

We left Seville and reached Madrid by train in around 3 hours, which I think is the perfect amount of time to spend on a train. While enjoying the Spanish countryside, we learned from some Spaniards that the festival of San Fermin, including the running of the bulls, was still going on that we could be there with another 3-hour train ride. We decided that we would go after leaving Madrid, but more on that later.

We arrived in Madrid and made our way to the Plaza de Espana to meet Jeremy, our first couch surfing host. For those of you who don’t know, couch surfers are an internet community of people who offer their homes to travelers for free, and since you typically end up sleeping on their couch, they call it couch surfing. Joey and I have hosted a handful of travelers over the last year, and since none of them were serial killers or that weird at all, we decided that we would try it as travelers. At the very least we would save some money and meet some interesting people.

And we met Jeremy.  Jeremy is a French ex-pat who lives in Madrid, working as a language tutor. As you will see from the pictures, Jeremy is, in my opinion, very French looking. According to his profile, he considers himself an expert in English, but he is an earnest amateur at best. During one conversation it took me ten minutes to understand that in France three separate channels show Desperate Housewives.  Really?

Hardly worth the effort. I’m not criticizing him—Jeremy honestly loves language, he says he knows 8, and you can tell he hosts couch surfers, particularly English speakers, so that he can practice. I admire this for two reasons. One, if my French were at the level of his English, I would never dream of hosting a French speaker, so he is certainly brave. Two, though we struggled to understand each other, he genuinely wanted to communicate with us and he strove to make that happen. During conversations he would look up words and then ask us how to use certain phrases or verbs.

In all of that I didn’t ask him how to say one thing in French, and I realized we native English speakers aren’t very generous with other languages. For us other languages are more like novelties because we understand that English is the language of culture and commerce, and that in terms of cost benefit analysis, the effort necessary to really learn another language isn’t worth it since English is king. Traveling helps us see how the rest of the world perceives our language and our culture and how we perceive ourselves, and I love this because I don’t know if I would ever think about this if it weren’t for encountering people like Jeremy. I realized that Europeans are like distant cousins to us Americans, so even though we have relatives in common, our families are different, and it’s always interesting to see how other families raise their children, so to speak.

But Jeremy was only with us in Madrid for one night because he was going to a nude beach for a couple of days (true story). We thought this meant that we were getting kicked out after one night, but then something incredible happened—he gave us the keys to his apartment—and he told us we are welcome to come and go as we please. Crazy, really. But then I looked around and realized he had no fear of us taking anything. There was nothing to take, unless we wanted a PC laptop with a French keyboard. We didn’t.

Now to that first night. His apartment had three bedrooms, but one of them was inaccessible for reasons that remain inexplicable, and because Jeremy’s roommate had the other room, this meant that all four of us would be sleeping in Jeremy’s room—his tiny, tiny room with two mattresses and a fold out couch. It was kind of like if you combined a sleep over with a refugee camp in Africa, except hotter. Way hotter. Jeremy had no AC because Europeans love to sweat and love to smell like sweat. I’m serious—there was nary a fan, which blows my mind because it’s not like ceiling or floor fans are a big secret. That first night in Madrid may be the worst night of sleep I have ever had, if you can call having your eyes closed for eight hours pretending to sleep while you roll around in your own sweat sleep.  Hey, at least it was free.

Seville, Spain

Our flight from London to Seville was easy overall, aside from having to get up at 4 am to make the airport. This compounded our sleep debt and when we finally got to Seville the only thing we were able to see before taking a 6-hour nap was the Seville Cathedral. I knew for sure that I needed to sleep when trudging through the world’s largest cathedral felt like a chore more than a privilege. Christopher Columbus’ stunning tomb only inspired a mild response. We did see a wooden alligator hanging from one of the outdoor transepts. Though I should have been asking why there was a wooden alligator at a church, I instead named him Woody Allengator. Tyler and Joey both laughed, which is concrete evidence that we all needed to sleep. Clearly, we weren’t thinking straight.

So after a glorious 6-hour nap we enjoyed a meal at a 300-year-old tapas bar. The food was good but the surprise of the evening was discovering a half-formed pearl in one the oysters we ate. Actually, my teeth discovered it. And after realizing what it was, we decided to make it the trip mascot and to name it. We settled on Gary Lawrence of Iberia. Unlike Woody Allengator, the pearl’s name is absolutely brilliant. He was too small though, and I lost him the next morning. Tyler cried.

We planned to head to Madrid the following morning but Tyler found out that there would be a bullfight that night in Seville. This was exciting to all of us, since attending a bullfight was at the forefront of our imaginations from the planning stages of this trip. There seems to be nothing more quintessentially Spanish than a bullfight, and Seville is the world capital of bullfights.

But I have to say the overall experience was strange and a little unsettling for me. One bull, for instance, had blood gushing out of his mouth by the end of the fight and when the team of horses would drag the dead bull’s body away, it always felt like they were celebration was a little too extravagant. It’s not like the bull had a real chance.

The most fascinating aspect of the whole ordeal was the matadors themselves. I didn’t realize there was a team of matadors each with a different job. The main matador though is the most fascinating. He is the one who ends up killing the bull, and he occupies a strange masculine/feminine space. In one sense his main job is to seduce the bull, luring him into a hypnotic dance. His main weapon is a kind of dance, a dance full of graceful and strikingly feminine steps. The bull spins and lunges into an ever dizzying trance, and ends up utterly stunned, standing woozy in front of the matador, who then plunges a sword into the bull’s back. This is where the matador becomes decidedly masculine. What starts graceful and seductive ends forceful and aggressive. And though we saw one matador toppled end over end by a charging bull, I never felt like the bullfighters were in danger. The only one in danger was the bull. His fate was sealed as soon as he stepped into the arena. What I thought would be a true confrontation between man and beast was really more pageantry, a prelude to a known end—the death of the bull.

Now on to one of the reasons travel is so great. Edward de Bono describes the human brain as a “self-organizing system,” which means, among other things, that as your brain figures something out, a place, a process, etc., it creates neural shortcuts for that thing. These neural shortcuts self-organize so that when certain stimuli hit your brain, your brain knows exactly what to do, so that over a long enough period of time you can do certain things on autopilot. Think about driving in your hometown. For the most part you aren’t paying attention because your brain knows how to get around.

What this means is that to learn, to grow, to shake up your brain, you need new environments and challenges. Travel, especially in foreign countries, jump-starts your brain.

In London when we walked into Victoria station and there were thousands of people moving in every direction and I was on no sleep and I had to figure out what tube to take, my brain kicked into overdrive. And I loved it. I had to form new patterns or at least develop pathways between existing patterns in my mind. I’ve always described travel as heightened living. You do many of things that you do in your regular life, but you experience them in a heightened way. If your every day life is standard definition television, then travel is high definition television.

For more photos from our adventures go here.

All photos by Joseph Schalbs.

34 Days in Europe Starts Here

“Why do you like going to Europe so much?” My grandfather asked me this question the day before I left for a 35-day jaunt to the continent, and in asking this question I know that he wanted me to justify the time and expense involved in such a journey. My sense is that his question is a lot of people’s question. Put simply, he’s really asking why travel matters. For someone like me who has been to Europe a handful of times and considers travel unquestionably valuable, the question strikes me as odd, almost nonsensical really. Surely there is no need to justify travel as a worthwhile investment of time and money?But maybe there is.

In addition to chronicling where we have gone and what we have done, I want to use this blog to attempt an answer to my grandfather’s question. I want to examine my own motivations for traveling and to dissect the underlining premise of the question, namely that things must have a measurable utility in order to be valuable.

So it begins.

None of us slept at all on the flight to London. This was a huge tactical error because we landed at 7:45 am local time, putting a whole day before our weary, plane-fatigued bodies. We decided that the rush of adrenaline and the aid of energy drinks would keep us going. It didn’t. When we finally made it to the British Library, it was all I could do to keep my eyes open. And that is saying something, considering that the only existing manuscript copy of Beowulf was two feet in front of me. If Beowulf or Paul McCartney’s handwritten lyrics for Yesterday or pages from Da Vinci’s notebooks can’t wake me up, then I really need a nap.

Part of this trip is about staying with people rather than in hotels. Saving money is part of it, but meeting new people is our main motive. We started with two of my college friends, Matt Gierhart and Josh Montgomery. They ive in London, and they were gracious enough to let us stay with them for a night on the floor of their flat. After a much needed nap, Matt and Josh took us around the corner for some local fare at the Indian Cottage. I grew to love Indian food in New York City, and I’ve quite missed it in Amarillo. The meal was great. Meals and friends seem like self-justifying reasons to travel, but I will explore the reasons for travel in my next post.

We slept for four hours that night and caught a flight to Seville, Spain. More on that later.

All photos by Joseph Schlabs.
Sleepy in London pub
Sleepy in London pub
Posing in the tube
Posing in the tube

Matt and Josh's apartment
Matt and Josh's apartment

Day 5 – Bacon Hair

We leave St. Louis behind and make a dead sprint for Ohio to get Dave to his bride-to-be.  That’s not to say that we don’t have fun along the way because we do.  We very much do.  Check it out Day 5 here.

Day 4 – Human Tsunami

We almost drown in a sea of cardinal red and a very special guest arrives on the fourth day of our adventure.  There is song and dance galore on the latest episode of Ahoy Ohio.

Day 3 – Bad Motha Trucka

Between the banned fireworks stand and the sweaty waiter at Outback, things warm up as we continue east on our journey to Dave’s wedding. Check out the latest installment of Ahoy Ohio at Tyler Buschman’s website.